Fifty-five years ago, on a December night in 1968, Elvis Presley, the King of Rock and Roll, reclaimed his throne with a television special that would forever be known as the ’68 Comeback Special. After years spent making formulaic, low-budget movies and soundtrack albums that took him away from the live performances and recording sessions that had defined his early success, Elvis was ready to connect with audiences again as a groundbreaking artist. This special was initially conceived by his manager, Colonel Tom Parker, as a simple holiday show, perhaps concluding with Elvis crooning Christmas carols like “Here Comes Santa Claus” or “I’ll Be Home for Christmas.”
However, producer Bob Finkel and director Steve Binder had a different vision. They saw an opportunity to refresh Elvis’s image, reminding younger viewers and the industry alike that he was a dynamic performer and a relevant musical force. Despite Colonel Parker’s initial resistance, Elvis fully embraced this new direction. The special was rehearsed and recorded throughout June 1968, a turbulent month marked by national tragedy – the assassinations of Bobby Kennedy and Martin Luther King, Jr. The death of King, in particular, deeply affected Elvis, who, according to biographer Peter Guralnick, “definitely wanted to say something more with his music than a song like ‘Hound Dog’ could express.”
Binder commissioned songwriter Walter Earl Brown Jr. to write a powerful song that would reflect the conversations he had with Elvis about the discord gripping the country. Brown delivered “If I Can Dream” overnight. Upon hearing it, Elvis knew it would be the special’s finale, a bold statement replacing the planned Christmas tune. Though Colonel Parker protested that it “ain’t Elvis’ kind of song,” the artistic merit of “If I Can Dream” prevailed, becoming the poignant closing number. The song’s powerful lyrics and Elvis’s heartfelt delivery resonated deeply, solidifying the special’s status as a landmark moment in music history and helping relaunch Elvis’s career in live performance.
The significance of this moment, particularly the performance of “If I Can Dream,” was highlighted in Baz Luhrmann’s 2022 biopic Elvis. The film, which garnered multiple Academy Award nominations including Best Picture and Best Actor for Austin Butler’s portrayal, depicted the struggle between the creative team and Colonel Parker over the song choice and recreated the iconic final performance. The movie effectively captured the impact of the special, which attracted a massive television audience and revitalized interest in Elvis’s music. “If I Can Dream” itself was a success, reaching number 12 on the Billboard Hot 100 and being certified Gold. Looking back at songs about elvis presley, “If I Can Dream” stands out as one of his most personal and politically charged performances.
Crafting the Look: The Iconic White Suit
For the ’68 Comeback Special, Elvis collaborated for the first time with legendary costume designer Bill Belew, who would go on to create Elvis’s signature high-collared jumpsuits of the 1970s. Belew designed several outfits for the special, including the famous tight black leather ensemble worn for the informal “sit-down” performances. However, for the powerful finale, the Elvis Presley White Suit Song moment, Belew crafted something different – a double-breasted white suit that mirrored the dramatic hope of “If I Can Dream.”
This white suit, a stark contrast to the black leather, conveyed a message of purity and peace. Costume designer Catherine Martin, who recreated the look for Austin Butler in the Elvis film, explained to The Art of Costume that the white suit was “very meaningful, because that song is a reaction to terrible assassinations that were happening in the late ’60s, terrible time of segregation—the racial violence, the political violence—and I think the white suit was really a plea for a more inclusive and more peaceful solution.” Martin and tailor Gloria Bava meticulously recreated this and other costumes for the film, earning an Academy Award nomination for their detailed work.
The suit itself was made from a soft napped cloth, possibly the “stretch wool jersey” that Bill Belew mentioned using for some of the special’s costumes. The double-breasted jacket featured a trendy neo-Regency style popular in the late 1960s. This was characterized by its high 6×3 button configuration and wide, ulster-like collar, a departure from conventional peak lapels. While this style might appear dated today, it was a deliberate choice to show Elvis was current and not stuck in his 1950s rockabilly image. The buttons on the front, cuffs, and decorative back buttons were all covered in the matching white cloth.
The jacket was tailored to emphasize Elvis’s physique, with padded shoulders, roped sleeveheads, front darts, and waist suppression. As Belew noted, Elvis “had a terrific build at that point.” The hip pockets were slanted with asymmetrical flaps. The jacket’s flared skirt and squared quarters meant it covered the trousers’ waistband entirely, particularly when buttoned.
Details of the Ensemble
Underneath the striking white jacket, Elvis wore a solid white cotton shirt with a shaped point collar and single-button barrel cuffs. The only splash of color came from a piece of red silk knotted around his neck. In the original 1968 performance, this was more of a narrow cravat. In the 2022 film, Austin Butler wore a similar piece, but knotted more like a conventional four-in-hand tie, representing a slight variation from the historical look. This touch of red against the white backdrop could be interpreted as a nod to the bloodshed and turmoil that inspired the song.
For footwear, Elvis wore white leather ankle boots with side-zip fastening, squared plain toes, and dark brown leather soles. These size-11 boots, reportedly made by Italian label Verde, were later given to Elvis’s close friend Charlie Hodge and sold at auction for a significant sum in 2015. Play elvis presley blue suede shoes is a classic example of Elvis’s early footwear style, but these white boots represented a more contemporary choice for the late ’60s.
Accessorizing the white suit, Elvis wore two rings: a gold pinky ring with a black star sapphire stone and a diamond-studded chevron arrow, and a diamond-banded platinum wedding ring. These personal touches added to the overall presentation of the King returning to the stage.
The Suit’s Unexpected Survival
Remarkably, the original white suit from the “If I Can Dream” performance, along with other significant costumes from the ’68 Comeback Special, was nearly lost forever. In 1971, Colonel Tom Parker planned to cut up 25 trunks of Elvis’s personal wardrobe to be included with album orders as promotional material – a typical Colonel move to monetize everything related to Elvis.
However, Elvis’s ranch manager, Mike McGregor, saw the shipment and intervened. After telling Elvis about the Colonel’s plan and commenting on the waste of “nice clothes,” Elvis told him to go through the collection and take what he wanted. McGregor’s discerning taste led him to select three key outfits from the 1968 special: the black leather suit, a burgundy suit, and the iconic white double-breasted suit worn for “If I Can Dream.” Thanks to this fortunate turn of events, these pieces of music history were saved.
Tim Moffatt included the white suit ensemble as one of Elvis’s top nine most iconic looks in an Entertainment Weekly retrospective published before the release of the Elvis movie. Its clean lines, significant context, and association with one of Elvis’s most powerful songs make it a standout in his extensive wardrobe. The white suit and the “If I Can Dream” performance cemented Elvis’s return and demonstrated his ability to use his platform for more than just rock and roll, delivering a message of hope and unity in a fractured time.
Emulating the Look
Recreating the exact look of Elvis’s 1968 white suit requires finding a specific style. Look for a neo-Regency inspired white suit, likely in a wool stretch jersey blend. Key features include the double-breasted 6×3 button jacket with a wide, ulster-style collar, slanted pockets, and decorative buttons on the cuffs and back vents. Pair it with a white cotton shirt and a bright red silk neckwear, whether a narrow cravat or a slightly wider knot. Complete the look with white leather side-zip ankle boots and, if you wish to be completely authentic, add a couple of rings.
However, as the original article notes, the true essence of the look comes from Elvis himself. His swagger and stage presence were integral to the performance. While you can replicate the garments, capturing the King’s charisma is another matter entirely. The combination of the powerful Elvis Presley White Suit Song and the visual statement made by the white suit created an unforgettable moment that continues to resonate decades later.
Conclusion
Elvis Presley’s performance of “If I Can Dream” in his striking white suit during the 1968 Comeback Special remains one of the most iconic moments in music history. This performance, and the suit he wore, were not just about fashion; they were a deliberate artistic statement reflecting the turbulent times and Elvis’s desire to connect with a deeper message. The meticulous recreation of this look in the 2022 Elvis biopic further cemented its legendary status. Thanks to a fortunate twist of fate, the original suit survived, allowing fans to appreciate a tangible piece of this pivotal moment in the King’s career and the powerful message delivered through the elvis presley white suit song.
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